Hyams Garden Center and Accent Store
Serving Greater Charleston Area with Quality, Variety & Professionalism since 1981
Hyams Garden Center carries a wide variety of pots and containers for indoor and outdoor gardening.
Made from the finest ceramic, terracotta, concrete and composite materials; and available in multiple styles and colors, these decorative containers are sure to enhance the beauty of your Low Country garden.
Because of their stunning colorful blooms, AMARYLLIS bulbs have been given traditionally as Christmas Gifts to family and friends. Native to the subtropical regions of Americas, Amaryllis serve as a perfect gift to brighten the dark days of winter for our loved ones. This brightly colored flower is available in myriad color combinations and even rival the poinsettias as the official holiday plant. They primarily bloom in summer in their natural state in the ground. However, their bulbs can be potted and induced to re-bloom in the winter adding lively color to an indoor setting.
Planting
Plant bulbs in nutritious potting compost, many are available pre-mixed. Plant the bulb up to its neck in the potting mix with compost, being careful not to damage the roots. Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.
Placement and Watering
Plant the bulb, or place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light since heat is necessary for the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68-70. Water sparingly until the stem appears, then, as the bud and leaves appear, gradually water more. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop after it has reached full growth.
Flowering Period
Bulbs will flower in 7–10 weeks as a general rule. In winter the flowering time will be longer than in spring. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind.
After-Bloom Care
After-Flowering: After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, it can be made to flower again. Cut the old flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut if back to the top of the bulb.
Leaf Growth and Development: Continue to water and fertilize as normal all summer, or for at least 5-6 months, allowing the leaves to fully develop and grow. When the leaves begin to yellow, which normally occurs in the early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2” from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.
Bulb Storage: Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks.
Plant Again: After 6 weeks you may remove the bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.
GROWING AMARYLLIS: Gardeners in areas where temperatures do not go below 10 (Zones 8-10) can plant Amaryllis bulbs directly in the ground. Choose a site with full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily) and well-drained soil. In frost-free areas, plant the bulb with the neck at, or slightly above, ground level. Once growth starts, water only if rain is infrequent and the top two inches of soil are dry. After the leaves appear, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10); repeat once a month through April. From June through September, keep the area dry. If leaves turn yellow, cut them off at the base.
POTTING AMARYLLIS: Pot bulbs individually in 6-7” pots or group 3 bulbs together in a 10-12” container. Begin by placing a well-drained potting mix in a plastic tub. Slowly add warm water and stir with your hand until the mix is moist but not soggy. Then fill the pot about half with potting mix, set the bulb on top of the mix and fill in around the bulb with additional mix. Adjust the position of the bulb as needed, so that the top third of the bulb is exposed. The final level of the mix should be about ½” below the rim of the pot to allow for watering. Firm the mix and water lightly to settle it around the bulbs. Then follow the “Pre-bloom Care” instructions below.
PRE-BLOOM CARE OF AMARYLLIS: Place the pot where the temperature remains above 60. The warmer the temperature (70-80
night and day is ideal), the faster the bulb will sprout and grow. Providing bottom heat (by setting the pot on a propagation mat or on the top of a refrigerator) may help stimulate growth. Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch. Watering more frequently, particularly just after potting, can cause the bulb to rot. (If the pot is covered with Spanish Moss, lift the moss and pour water directly on the potting mix.)
Growth generally begins in 2-8 weeks. Certain varieties of Amaryllis may take more time to sprout. As long as your bulb remains firm, be patient and take care not to overwater. Provide ample sunshine (a south-facing window or a sunroom) as soon as the bulb sprouts. Rotate the pot frequently to prevent the flower stalks from leaning toward the light.
HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS BULBS IN WATER
Using a Shallow Container: Select a wide, shallow container no deeper than 4” with enough room to fit as many amaryllis bulbs as you want. Fill it halfway with gravel or stones. Place gravel or stones around the bulbs until only the tip 1/3 of the bulbs is visible. The gravel holds the bulbs steady and ensures that they remain upright. Add enough water to the container to fill the bottom but not touch the bulbs. The roots will grow down into the water. Don’t let waster touch the bulb. It will cause it to rot. Place the container in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Check the water level daily. The room should remain at 50-60℉. Using an unheated garage is ideal. Move the container into a bright room, but keep it out during the day and do not fall below 60℉ at night. Check the water level daily. It should still not reach the bulbs. The amaryllis will bloom in 6 to 8 weeks after being moved into the bright room and should last for 4 to 6 weeks.
Using a Glass Vase: Select a glass vase narrow enough to keep the amaryllis bulb in the neck, or use a forcing vase. Fill the bottom of the vase with water. Place the bulb in the vase, making sure it does not touch the water. Place the vase in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Move the vase into a bright room but keep it out of direct light. You will have blooms in 6 to 8 weeks.
Lots of people like to have ‘Raised Garden Beds’ to grow flowers, herbs and vegetables. These are relatively easy to construct and maintain. Raised Bed gardening has many benefits.
A raised garden bed is basically a large planting container that sits above ground and is filled with soil and plants. It is a box with no bottom or top, that is to say, a frame which is placed in a sunny spot and is filled with good quality soil to cultivate vegetables, herbs and flowers. For many a ‘Raised Garden Bed’ is a source of pride and pleasure and is a centerpiece of their garden.
A ‘Raised Garden Bed’ does not have to be very deep to be effective. Vegetable beds should be 12 to 18 inches deep. Plants that require drier soil may need taller boxes with porous growing medium. ‘Raised Garden Beds’ come in different dimensions. However, most people start with a 4 feet wide, 4 feet long and 1 foot deep (4x4x1) bed. This dimension is easier to maintain as the gardener can access it comfortably from all sides. Larger dimensions make it harder to weed and harvest. Multiple beds of the same dimensions can be made and arranged aesthetically in the garden to grow different crops.
‘Raised Garden Beds’ need a location that has level ground and gets right amount of sunlight, that is to say, 6 to 8 hours per day. The site for beds must be prepared by breaking up and loosening the soil underneath so that it is not compacted. Digging 6 to 8 inches deep and mixing the top layer of soil with the soil below a spade’s depth improves rooting. Because many plants require well-draining soil, placing rocks in the bottom of a raised bed to create additional drainage space below the soil is a sensible step. Unlike soil, rocks will not degrade or compact over time.
A ‘Raised Garden Bed’ can be constructed using wood or galvanized metal. Using the right wood to make the boxes is very important. CCA pressure-treated wood is banned as it can leach arsenic into the soil. Regular pressure-treated lumber can be used as it is certified safe for organic growing. Cedar is the most preferred option as it contains natural oils which protect it from moisture breakdown and can last the longest, however, it can be more expensive. Alternatively, some like to build their beds with concrete blocks or bricks. However, it is important to keep in mind that the contents of concrete can negatively impact the pH of the soil and will require frequent soil amendments. Galvanized metal works well for building raised beds because the zinc coating helps prevent the metal from rusting. Without galvanization, the metal’s constant exposure to soil and moisture would cause the beds to fall apart within a year or two of use.
The soil blend that you put into your raised bed is its most important ingredient. More gardens fail or falter due to poor soil than almost anything else. Fill the beds with a mix of topsoil, compost, and other organic material, such as manure, to give your plants a nutrient-rich environment. The soil in a raised bed tends to dry out more quickly. During the spring and fall, this is fine, but during the summer, add straw, mulch, or hay on top of the soil to help it retain moisture. Frequent watering will be critical with raised beds, especially in the early stages of plant growth. Otherwise, raised beds need little maintenance.
For a vegetable and herb bed of 4 feet by 4 feet by 1 foot (4 x 4 x 1 or 16 cubic feet), we at Hyams Garden Center recommend the following soil recipe:
For budget calculating purposes, the cost is approximately $4.75 per cubic foot as of summer of 2020.
For a 4 feet by 8 feet (4 x 8) raised bed the soil recipe would be the following:
For Charleston, a good time to introduce starter plants to the ‘Raised garden Beds’ for the Fall Planting Season is when temperatures during the day are in the mid-80s and the nights are in the mid to low 70s Fahrenheit.
A good time to directly sow seeds into the bed is mid-September to mid-October. The best seeds to sow are root vegetables like carrots, beets, turnip, etc.
Vegetables best suited for ‘Raised Garden Beds’ are (1) leafy greens, (2) onions, (3) tomatoes and (4) potatoes.
| JANUARY | Beets Cabbage | Carrot Early Peas | Onion Sets Lettuce | Mustard Rutabaga | Spinach Turnips |
| FEBRUARY | Broccoli Cabbage | Collards Lettuce | Mustard Onion Sets | Potatoes Irish Radish | Rutabaga Turnips, Parsley |
| MARCH | Beans, Snap Beans Pole Beans Half Runner | Beans, Lima Broccoli Cantaloupes Collards | Corn Cucumbers Egg Plant Lettuce | Peas Peppers Radish Squash | Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon |
| APRIL | Beans, Lima Cantaloupes, Corn | Cucumbers Egg Plant Lettuce | Okra Peanuts Peppers | Southern Peas Squash | Tomatoes Watermelon |
| MAY | Beans, Lima Cantaloupes, Corn | Cucumbers Egg Plant Lettuce | Okra Peanuts Peppers | Southern Peas Squash | Tomatoes Watermelon |
| JUNE | Beans, Tomatoes | Egg Plant Okra | Sweet Potato Sets | ||
| JULY | Beans | Cucumber | Egg Plant | Okra | Tomato |
| AUGUST | Beans, Beets, Broccoli | Cabbage Cauliflower Collards | Cucumber Garlic Kale | Lettuce Mustard Onion Sets | Peppers Rutabaga Squash, Turnip |
| SEPTEMBER | Broccoli, Kale | Lettuce Mustard | Onion Sets Radish | Turnip | |
| OCTOBER | Mustard Onion Sets | Radish Lettuce | Rutabaga Spinach | Turnip | |
| NOVEMBER | Onion Sets | Radish | Spinach | ||
| DECEMBER | Beets | Cabbage | Carrot |
The chart below provides quick and easy references for not only which vegetables grow well together, but which to avoid planting together.
| Vegetable | Companion Plant | Don’t Plant Together |
| Asparagus | Tomatoes | None |
| Beans (Bush or Pole) | Celery, corn, cucumbers, radish, strawberries and summer savory | Garlic and onion |
| Beets | Bush beans (not pole beans), cabbage, broccoli, kale, lettuce, onions, garlic | Pole beans |
| Cabbage Family (cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts) | Beets, celery, dill, Swiss chard, lettuce, spinach, onions, potatoes | Pole beans |
| Carrots | Beans, tomatoes | None |
| Celery | Beans, tomatoes, cabbages | None |
| Corn | Cucumber, melons, squash, peas, beans, pumpkin | Tomatoes |
| Cucumber | Beans, corn, peas, cabbage | None |
| Eggplant | Beans, pepper | None |
| Melons | Corn, pumpkin, radish, squash | None |
| Onions | Beets, carrots, Swiss chard, lettuce, peppers | All beans and peas |
| Peas | Beans, carrots, corn, cucumbers, radish, turnip | Garlic, onions |
| Potatoes | Beans, corn, peas | Tomatoes |
| Squash | Corn, melons, pumpkins | None |
| Tomatoes | Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers | Corn, potatoes, kohlrabi |
Many old-fashioned vegetable gardens or kitchen gardens mix vegetables, herbs and flowers together. Not only does this type of garden look beautiful, but it also harnesses the power of nature to create an organic garden that naturally repels pests. Marigolds repel many species of insects. You can plant marigolds around tomatoes to inhibit the ugly green horn worms. These big insects can devour an entire tomato plant in one night. Plant marigolds around your entire vegetable garden to add bright color and keep the insect predators at bay.
Herbs add flavor to foods, and they can also discourage harmful insects. Nasturtium and rosemary deter beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels the cabbage worm. Chives and garlic deter aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose plant for the organic gardener who wants to deter most insects and pests. Plant herbs freely among vegetables, tucking basil, oregano, rosemary and chives in among the tomato and pepper plants. You can harvest the entire crop and make one great tasting dinner.
Companion Planting offers every gardener the chance to harness the power of nature for higher yields as well as natural, organic insect control. By tucking a few carefully chosen extra plants among the vegetables, you increase the garden yield and enjoy a bountiful harvest.
| Vegetable | Seeds or Plants? | When to Plant |
| Beans, snap or green | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Late Spring (after danger of frost has passed) |
| Beets | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to Mid-Spring |
| Broccoli | Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks in spring or summer for fall | Transplant into garden early spring or late summer for fall crop. |
| Cabbage | Start seeds indoors 8 weeks before last frost date | Transplant into garden early spring or summer for fall. |
| Carrots | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Mid to Late Spring |
| Chard | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to Mid-Spring |
| Corn | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Late spring (after danger of frost has passed) |
| Eggplant | Start seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost date | Transplant into garden late spring. |
| Lettuce | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to Mid-Spring |
| Peas | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to Mid-Spring |
| Peppers | Sow seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost date | Transplant into garden late spring. |
| Pumpkin | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Late spring (after danger of frost has passed) |
| Radish | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to mid-spring |
| Spinach | Sow seeds directly into the garden | Early to mid-spring or fall |
| Squash | Sow directly or start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost date | Late spring |
| Tomatoes | Sow seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost date | Transplant into garden late spring. |
| Zucchini | Sow directly or start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost date | Late spring |
